Treal RC 2.9" Beadlock Wheels & Two-Stage Foam Setup
Treal RC parts have proven to be high-quality and robust on both of our SCX-6 crawlers
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When it comes to upgrades for the SCX-6 Honcho, aftermarket aluminum beadlock wheels tend to be somewhat bland in terms of styling. Coupled with a lack of curb appeal, the machining on a few sets we have in the shop is a bit hastily executed with a number of oversized threaded holes and unfinished edges.
While this may not be an issue for many crawlers, it bothers us in that we frequently change out foams and tires for our testing needs, and dealing with stripped threads in holes or rough edges is aggravating. Hunting around for a better set, I checked in with Treal RC to see what they had in their product line for the SCX-6. We were already using their shock mounts and front bumper mount on our Honcho, a set of their axles for our RC Speedy moon buggy, and the quality of these parts is quite good. Scrolling through Treal's website, we found two sharp looking sets of beadlock wheels for the SCX-6. They looked to be far better than what we’re currently using. I was confident that the quality would match the looks, so we ordered up both sets for a closer look. |
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Opening the box, I was pleased to see excellent machine work and bright, vibrant colors. One set of wheels was a bright blue color with a honeycomb pattern machined into the face, and the second set of wheels was a bronze mag pattern, featuring a modest inset, chunky spokes, and clean lines.
I decided to set aside the bronze mag wheels for a special set of tires I had waiting in the wings and use the blue honeycomb wheels for this project. Chances are that if these wheels perform well, they will become the standard testing wheel for all 2.9” tire reviews moving forward. |
Treal RC machined-aluminum beadlock wheel face.
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We didn't want this article to just be about how nifty the Treal RC wheels are, but rather to share with our readers some of the tips and setup techniques we use when setting up a new set of 2.9” tires for testing. Anything less, and this would only be an advertisement.
Specifically, we’re going to dive into our methods for setting up Injora RC two-stage foams and assembling the wheels. You can follow along with any aluminum beadlock wheel you may have; this process is not exclusive for Treal RC wheels. You can also use any two-stage foam you want, the techniques shown here will work for just about any of the foams on the market.
Our hope here is that the information here will help some of our readers with their SCX-6 builds.
Specifically, we’re going to dive into our methods for setting up Injora RC two-stage foams and assembling the wheels. You can follow along with any aluminum beadlock wheel you may have; this process is not exclusive for Treal RC wheels. You can also use any two-stage foam you want, the techniques shown here will work for just about any of the foams on the market.
Our hope here is that the information here will help some of our readers with their SCX-6 builds.
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Getting Ready
There are a number of two-stage foams to choose from, and recently we've I’ve been working with a lower-cost, two-stage foam purchased from Injora RC. They tend to run a bit smaller than the Pro-Line Racing foams, and this helps with traction out on the trail. Since we are only crawling, I’m not concerned with high-speed stability. If I were, I’d probably go with the larger Pro-Line foams or maybe even the Crawler Innovations SCX-6 foams. The only downside to these Injora RC foams we've selected is that they do not have the inner step which locks into the clamping ring of the wheel, so they tend to shift a bit more from side to side on the wheel. |
Injora two-stage foams ( L ) and Pro-Line Racing two-stage foams ( R ).
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That said, I’ve come to use tuning discs with these foams because they do a great job of keeping the closed-cell inner foam centered on the wheel and allowing for a bit more flex on the tire's edges. We have this setup in a few other tires, and they've worked rather well.
Later on in this article, we will show you how to make your own set of tuning discs from a spare set of single-stage open-cell foams which came with the Pro-Line Racing Super Swamper tires used for this project. Any full-sized open-cell foam will work for this, so be sure to save your OEM foams if you are using a different tire.
Later on in this article, we will show you how to make your own set of tuning discs from a spare set of single-stage open-cell foams which came with the Pro-Line Racing Super Swamper tires used for this project. Any full-sized open-cell foam will work for this, so be sure to save your OEM foams if you are using a different tire.
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Here is a list of items used for this project:
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Screw Tightening Pattern
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Before We Start; A Lesson on Screw Tightening
During the process of building these or any type of beadlock wheels, it’s important to assemble the wheel parts in a specific sequence. Doing so will ensure the wheel components mate together on a flat plane, rather than warping or bending the parts. Before you start, take a look at the accompanied photo with numbers on each screw position. You will notice that the screw hole positions 1 and 2 are on opposite sides of the wheel. This opposite spacing continues for holes 3 and 4, repeating until all the screw holes are accounted for. |
No matter how many screws you are using to attach wheel parts, follow this pattern of opposite sides. Even hole counts line up 180 degrees apart, while odd screw holes will be slightly off. As long as you are somewhere near the 180 separation, you’ll be fine.
The first step is to make one pass on the screws, getting about half-way down into the screw holes. Repeat this one more time until each screw is lightly snugged at the bottom of its travel. The final pass is to tighten them down. Following this process for any wheel type will give you the best results.
The first step is to make one pass on the screws, getting about half-way down into the screw holes. Repeat this one more time until each screw is lightly snugged at the bottom of its travel. The final pass is to tighten them down. Following this process for any wheel type will give you the best results.
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Step 1 – Beadlock Ring Install
The first step is to install the black aluminum beadlock ring onto the outside wheel face. The holes are precisely drilled and tapped on the outside wheel face, and this corresponds with countersunk holes on the black beadlock ring. A unique feature to these beadlock rings is a centering lip machined on the inside of the ring. This allows for precise placement of the ring on the wheel, ensuring you have concentric alignment between the beadlock ring and the wheel. Treal RC is one of the few companies offering this feature. |
Treal RC machines a small centering lip on their beadlock rings. It's a nice quality touch.
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A small dab of Timken bearing grease to prevent galling.
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Following the screw-tightening process listed above, start with the black beadlock ring positioned on the wheel’s face.
I dip each screw into a bit of Timken bearing grease before installing. Lubricating the screw prevents galling and will result in a much more uniform torque load on the screw threads. As an added benefit, it makes it far easier to remove the screws later on. Just be sure to wipe the excess grease away or it will attract dirt. At this point, set the front halves of the wheels aside. It’s now time to move onto foams. |
Step 2 - Tuning Discs
Tuning discs are thin rings of open-cell foam placed on either side of the two-stage foam, against the sidewall of the tire. This sandwiching effect helps fill out the tire and reduce foam shifting while allowing additional flexibility for the tire’s sidewall to grip chunky bits of rock out on the trail.
The next step is to determine the desired thickness of the sidewall tuning disc for your needs. Depending on the weight of the truck and your intended use, you may opt for a thicker or thinner foam. Thicker will increase sidewall stiffness, while thinner will allow for more flexibility. For the Super Swamper tire and the weight of our SCX-6 Honcho, I chose 0.25” for the tuning disc thickness.
Tuning discs are thin rings of open-cell foam placed on either side of the two-stage foam, against the sidewall of the tire. This sandwiching effect helps fill out the tire and reduce foam shifting while allowing additional flexibility for the tire’s sidewall to grip chunky bits of rock out on the trail.
The next step is to determine the desired thickness of the sidewall tuning disc for your needs. Depending on the weight of the truck and your intended use, you may opt for a thicker or thinner foam. Thicker will increase sidewall stiffness, while thinner will allow for more flexibility. For the Super Swamper tire and the weight of our SCX-6 Honcho, I chose 0.25” for the tuning disc thickness.
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Starting with the ruler flat on the table, I lay the felt marker in the groove of the ruler so it does not shift.
The tip of the Sharpie is approximately 0.25” above the workbench, resulting in a 0.25” thick disc once cut. I'm not convinced that it would be possible to see much of a difference between 0.30" and 0.20" on the trail, so don't feel the need to be right on the 0.25" mark if your following along at home. The key here is to be consistent among all the tuning discs cut, so make sure your Sharpie is held in a fixed and repeatable position. Next, place one of the open-cell foams from the Pro-Line Racing Super Swampers flat on the table. These foams are wide enough to get four or five tuning discs per insert, depending on your choice for disc thickness. |
Marking the cut lines.
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Rotate the foam smoothly against the surface of the workbench. Be sure to not press down or deform the foam in any way.
Carefully rotate the foam and trace the cutting line around the outside of the foam. Flip the foam over and repeat the process. |
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Cutting the Disc
For tools, I use a narrow-bladed utility knife, something like a Uline Mini Snap-Blade Knife Extend the blade out ¾ of it’s total reach. It will come as a surprise, but cutting foam will dull a knife blade quickly. I have found that a fresh blade is good for about 6 tuning discs, then as it dulls, it will start to grab the foam and cause chunking or tearing. |
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Tuning disc properly cut for uniform thickness.
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Starting with a fresh blade, plunge the tip 1/3rd of the way into the foam and carefully rotate the foam while holding the blade in a fixed position. Make a full rotation, then plunge the blade in another 1/3 and repeat.
This will result in a straighter cut. Don’t get in a rush, you want to let the disc fall away as the cutting completes. Pulling it away will distort the cut and result in a high spot on the foam. I can get about 5 discs from each insert, and I use two discs per tire. It’s a good idea to cut a few more discs than you need to serve as a spares. Chances are you will mess one up the first time you try to install the tuning disc. They are a somewhat thin and tear easily. |
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The last step here is to cut out the inner hole a bit, enlarging it to 4" in diameter. I used the lid from our Timken grease container and traced the circle.
This provides a bit more clearance around the wheel's clamping ring and tire bead. You want to some space here so the tire’s bead doesn’t grab an edge of the tuning disc when install the remainder of wheel parts. Again, this doesn't need to be exactly 4" in diameter. Just something close to that and you'll be fine. Curved Lexan scissors work best for this step. |
4" diameter cut line marked on the tuning discs.
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Note how there is some clearance between the tuning disc and the clamping ring. You don't want any overlap in this area.
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Step 3 - Stuffing Tires
First thing to do is install the two-stage foams, ensuring the inner closed cell ring is evenly aligned with the softer outer foam ring. Next is installation of the tuning discs, placing one on each side of the foam. Some people install only one tuning disc on the side facing away from the crawler, especially when using narrow wheels. This can be dependent on the width of the tire, two-stage foam, and their crawling needs. I haven't not seen this done very much for the SCX-6 size, but it's not uncommon for the 2.2" and 1.9" class of crawlers. Just food for thought in the event you want to experiment with this later on. At this point, it’s time to install the Treal RC beadlock wheels. |
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Tech Tip
With the foams installed, it’s time to let you all in on another trick. For years I’ve been using Super Lube’s Anti-Corrosion & Connector Gel on the tire’s bead to make it a bit slippery. With a bit of lube on the tire’s bead, it’s far easier to install the inner support ring and align the front a rear wheel halves. Another benefit is that once dry, it’s a bit sticky and will help the tire’s bead grip the wheel tightly. It also helps seal out dust and debris. Give it a try and you’ll wonder why you never thought of this yourself. You’re welcome. |
This lube helps the wheel assembly process.
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Screws Installed. Note the threaded hole in the center of the wheel. This is for the decorative cap which hides the 10mm mounting nut.
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Step 4 - Wheel Assembly
After lubing up the tire’s bead, slip the clamping ring inside the inner closed-cell foam and center. Make sure you didn’t pull the tuning disc out of position. From there install the two halves of the wheel and rotate them so the screw holes on the rear wheel align with the drilled and tapped holes on the wheels’ face. The lube will allow the halves to spin easily without binding on the tire. Same as before, I dip each screw into a bit of grease and follow the torquing pattern for the screws tightening. |
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Hub Installation
The Treat RC wheels come with removable hubs which you can replace in the event they become damaged. This is an unusual upgrade in that the majority of 2.9" beadlock wheels have the hub machined into the wheel half. I much prefer removable hubs on beadlock wheels. I do hope one day to have different off-sets available so we can take further advantage of this feature. Installing the hubs is the same screw-tightening process by which you installed the two wheel halves together. Grease the screws and work carefully. |
Treal RC Wheel Hub
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Mounting
This part is relatively straight forward, but I’ve opted to switch to a standard nylon nut with separate washer. I feel this gives a more positive lock on the nut without scratching the wheel. A bit of grease on the threads is a good idea in that these 10mm nuts need to be fairy tight. |
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Decorative Cap
Treal RC provides these nice decorative caps to hide the mounting nut. On the inside shoulder of the thread form, there is a small rubber O-ring to help secure the cap to the wheel via friction. |
Ready to hit the trail!
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First day out on the trail with the Treal RC wheels and Pro-Line Racing Super Swampers.
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At this point, you’re ready to hit the trail. Keep in mind that new foams take a few hours of crawling to break in.
For us, we had been waiting to start the Pro-Line Racing Super Swamper review until we completed this article on wheel and foam setup. With this now complete, we've been busy out on the trails taking notes and shooting video. So far the wheels and foams have been excellent, working perfectly for our needs. If you're looking to upgrade the wheels and foams on your SCX-6, you should give this setup a close look. |
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Earlier in the article, we mentioned the bronze set of 2.9" mag wheels from Treal RC, and here they are. In my opinion, these are some of the best looking 2.9" wheels on the market today. Clean lines, detailed machine work, and an understated classic look should make them pop nicely in our photos out on the trail.
These wheels were built up with a new set of the JConcepts 2.9" Tusk Tires, and we're stoked to get these out on the trail ASAP. The 1.9" Tusks are one of our favorite crawling tires, holding the top spot with a 99/100 score in the 1.9" tire rankings. The 2.9" version should be just as good out on our terrain. Tusks will be the tire reviewed after the Swampers, so stay tuned. |
Treal RC aluminum beadlock wheel with JConcepts 2.9" Tusk crawler tire.
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Perfect balance of traction and support from this foam setup.
Back out on the trail, and with a few hours of crawling complete, the foam setup with working quite well.
The tuning discs allow for plenty of support on the sidewall, but it also allows the tire to flex and conform to the rock's surface.
In this photo, we had no problem gripping the walls of this tight canyon. A single-stage open-cell foam would have collapsed to the edge of the wheel.
In situations like this, you just want to be a bit careful with the steering.!
The tuning discs allow for plenty of support on the sidewall, but it also allows the tire to flex and conform to the rock's surface.
In this photo, we had no problem gripping the walls of this tight canyon. A single-stage open-cell foam would have collapsed to the edge of the wheel.
In situations like this, you just want to be a bit careful with the steering.!
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We hope this review was helpful in showing some ideas and tips on foam setup for the SCX-6. Getting this right will make a considerable difference in the performance of your Honcho or Rubicon.
See you all out on the trail! -MVRCA Team. |
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